Buying a used car checklist
Almost all of this happens before you hand over any money — a viewing done properly is the difference between a bargain and a car that's already costing you.
21 items
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The items
- Budget set including insurance, tax and running costsThe purchase price is the smallest number in the true cost of a car.
- Documents checked
- History and outstanding finance check against the registration numberA car with finance still owed on it isn't fully the seller's to sell, regardless of what they say.
- Registration document in the seller's name and address
- MOT history checked online before the viewingFree to check, and it shows every advisory the car has ever had, not just whether it currently has a valid certificate.
- Service history and stampsGaps are worth asking about directly rather than assuming they don't matter.
- Viewed in daylightFiller and touch-up paint are far easier to spot in daylight than under a garage light or at dusk.
- Bodywork checked panel by panel for mismatched paint or gapsA slightly different shade or an uneven gap between panels usually means a repair, not a factory finish.
- Underneath checked for rust, especially the sills and wheel archesSurface rust is normal on an older car. Rust you can push a key through is not.
- Mileage checked against the service history and MOT recordA mileage that doesn't match the paperwork is the classic sign of clocking.
- Tyres checked, tread and even wearUneven wear across the tyre points to a suspension or alignment problem that's about to be yours.
- Fluids checked for level and colourMilky oil, for one, is a sign of a head gasket problem that costs far more than the car is worth fixing.
- Every electrical thing switched on onceWindows, wipers, aircon, every warning light — anything not tried on the viewing gets found out on the drive home.
- Test drive from cold, over a mix of roads including a motorway stretch if possibleA knock or hesitation on a cold start is exactly what a seller who's warmed the car up beforehand is hiding.
- Steering and brakes checked for pulling to one side
- Number of previous owners consideredNot a dealbreaker on its own, but worth asking why if it's changed hands often in a short time.
- Keys and locking checked, both sets presentA second key replaced later is an easy few hundred pounds nobody budgets for.
- Ideally seen at the seller's home address, not a car parkA private seller meeting you somewhere neutral is one of the more common warning signs.
- Independent inspection booked for anything beyond a small, cheap carThe cost is small next to what it can catch before the money's gone.
- Price negotiated against faults actually found, not guessed atA specific fault found on the day carries more weight than a general 'it's a bit pricey'.
- Paperwork completed properlyBoth parties keep a signed note of the sale, the date, the mileage and the price — for exactly the situation where it's disputed later.
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Questions people ask
- What's the most important check on a used car?
- An outstanding finance and history check against the registration number. A car still owed on isn't legally the seller's to sell, whatever they tell you.
- Should I view a car that's already running when I arrive?
- No — ask for it cold. A warm engine hides a bad cold start and a knock that only shows up in the first minute.
- Is a mechanic's inspection worth paying for?
- Yes, for anything beyond a small, cheap car. It costs a fraction of what an issue found after buying would.